Tuesday, May 1, 2007

Good Head

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In our throw away culture there is something really rewarding/exciting about asking your local fish monger to keep the heads. Hell , There is something really exciting about just using the word fishmonger. Though, I have to admit, I was mixed with a strange mélange of pride and carnivore guilt when he handed me the bag. Its not often you walk away with a bloody, fresh and still discernable kill from your local grocers freezer.

“aaww poor fish “ I crooned.
“its your fault” said the fishmonger, “you killed them. “
“ Thanks for that.” I replied. “ Ill be sure to come here again. “
We went back to my friends house and watched "The Deadliest Catch" while we picked over the bones.

I like making stocks.
A stock is like a strong supporting cast member - one that you can stick in the freezer and take out for later use .
Besides the whole alchemy that stems from making pungent scraps into something subtle and endlessly usefull (fish pie, paella , soup…) , it’s the perfect way to spend a few hours on a rainy spring afternoon .Something about fish stock is inherently warming on those first noncomital ,rainy and gray spring days– that inbetween time where you aren’t really sure if its actually warming up or if the sheer will exerted by the tired cold masses is enough to bring up last years bulbs.

I wont lie .I probably didn’t pick the best fish.
You aren’t suppose to use salmon. Ive always been one to challenge authority. I wanted to know why and I found out. Apparently salmon gives up more fat then other fishes and fat can gunk up your flow. There is any easy solution. Fat floats. All that needs be done is to skim the top. You really should be doing it anyway.That being said I feel like salmon made for a "fishier" stock .
I also used some sea bass parts hoping they'd add some depth .

A few other tips :



  • Leave some space in the container at the top if you are going to freeze so the liquid can expand. I didnt the first time.
  • Magazines like better homes and gardens like to suggest freezing in ice cubes trays so you can pop them out and use them like boullian cups when the spirit moves you
  • boiling fish in water sometimes lends a cloudy broth. Cooking the heads a little bit in a pan before hand will help you keep a clear stock , though its no big whoop.

P.s. there really is no way to go wrong.

But this is what I did based on what was at hand and available on the cheap at the supermarket



  • 2.5 ilbs fish parts
  • a parsnip
  • one HUGE onion
  • 2 whites of leeks
  • 3 celery stalks with leaves
  • 12 peppercorns
  • 2 bay leaves
  • dill
  • taragon
  • tyme
  • salt
  • 2 quarts (8 cups) water
  • lemon juice
  • white wine vineagar (1/2 cup or so)
  • a little wine to mellow the mind (1/2 cup or so)


First you want to steam the vegetables and make them soft adding the fish bits toward the end. I let in simmer in a big nelly bottomed pan for about 5 minutes or so (till the heads started to turn white and fall apart) . At this point add the vineagar and or wine. simmer a little longer and then turn the contents into a big stock pot with 2 quarts water.
Boil anywhere from 30 - 50 minutes.

strain.

refrigerate and use withing 3-4 days or freeze that mess and use it withing 4 months or so.

I didnt specify on the herbs etc. use your judgement.
For a change of pace I can say,
it's not me ... its you.

1 comment:

Christine said...

Interesting point about the salmon. We made Mohinga once (it is a Burmese dish, sort of like a fish soup--VERY GOOD, and eaten on special occassions like Temple dedications or Buddhist new Year.) Anyway, we used salmon instead of the fish you are supposed to use and the soup was really fatty b/c of the salmon. We froze it and it of course expanded--I learned that lesson, too.