Friday, April 4, 2008

Ruby Red Grapefruit Granita with Rosewater and Honey

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Grapefruits are like God's gift.
A ruby red grapefruit is one of the last bastions in adulthood where you are given silent permission to sweeten the hell out of something without being reprimanded.
Even if you are 65 and have diabetes no one will bat an eye as you sprinkle sugar all over your grapefruit half , spoon in one hand and insulin in the other.
With a breakfast like that who among us wouldn't feel blessed?

This was my first time making a granita and while I knew it would be super simple I had no idea how defeated I would feel afterward.
There was no " Holy crap I'm a culinary genius!" ego stroke to be found here folks.
But the sophisticated fancy pants points come in here with the name.
Say it out loud with me.

GRANITA!

Sometimes sparkly Italian words give you eat cred.
So cut that "water-ice" talk and let yourself feel superior.

Despite my opening sweetener rant , I went for the gold here and swapped out the sugar for some honey.
I have always wanted to keep bee's and have some really great jars from family friends in the Ukraine but opted for a reserve jar I bought straight from a keeper on a dirt road in Hawaii.
This is a great place for a flowery honey.
It compliments the gentle perfume of rosewater and softens the grapefruit into something pooling and breezy.

* I don't have my notes in front of me while I'm writing this but this is pretty darn close. I will check back with exactly what it is I did soon I promise.

Ruby Red Grapefruit Granita with Honey and Rosewater and Honey

  • One Grapefruit juiced with pulp included
  • one half cup water
  • 1/4 cup honey
  • 2 tbsp rosewater


Heat the water and honey until bubbles form.
Once cooled added the grapefruit juice and rosewater.
Mix well.
At this point you've got options.

1) Freeze in ice cube trays and blend up in a food processor.

2) Freeze in a plastic freezer bag.
Once frozen double bag and beat against the concrete / smash with a mallet.
Of course this is the method I prefer.
(just be careful. not only for the sake of your thumbs but for the sake of the bag. It may rip open.)

3) Freeze in a tray or container that will allow you to scrape it into flakes with a fork. This actually works pretty well.


Now eat it. Let it melt on your tongue and bring you one step closer to God.

Whoa image. It is. it's kind of ridiculous. and another citrus fruit.
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Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Hot Sweet and Sour Glazed Shrimp

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TaaDaaH!

While not entirely off my radar, I have never really loved a lot of heat in food. Something about the watering eyes/masochistic burning lips / killing taste buds thing has never made any sense to me.
It hurts.
But tastes change.
Where once I would wildly hunt the back of the Frigidaire for the salty sour of a crisp pickle, lately I've been hacking up and piecing together pepper parts like a Mad Dr.

Yes...
A Dr. pepper if you will.
Lets just say if bland is a disease, I've got the cure.

Here is a new role for that versatile out of work jam in your kitchen.
Serrano's punch up the sweet and sour of raspberry/currant/blood orange jam with roasted Pablanos yielding to a satisfying balance of heat and sweet.
It's also worth mentioning one of the greatest attributes of a mason jar glaze.
The jam sets up beautifully into a sticky high gloss that caramelizes like whoa.
This dish would be great on the BBQ with some grilled pineapple, or pan crackle it like I did.

Hot Sweet and Sour Glazed Shrimp

  • 1 lb Shrimp
  • 1 onion
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • 2 Serrano peppers
  • 1 Pablano pepper

For the Glaze

  • 2 tbsp jam (3 if you like it sweeter)
  • 1 1/4 cup pineapple juice (or substitute orange)
  • 2 tbsp vinegar
  • 1 lime juiced
  • 2/3 cup fresh cilantro
  • 3 tbsp cornstarch.


* optional*
salt, pepper, cumin powder....and fish stock for the rice if your into it.
Feel free to substitute the red currant rasberry blood orange jam from last post. I won't get my feelings hurt. Try raspberry,orange marmalade,guava, or even lime!
I did do you a favor though.
As far as the cornstarch goes more makes it thick and clingy, less more saucey.
Keep this in mind when deciding whether to grill or fry.
I kept the proportion of glaze to shrimp in a 1:1 ratio so that it is easy to multiply the ingredients by the number of pounds shrimp you intend to use. See...Daddy loves you.
Now get to work.

Clean the shrimp.

Mix juice and jam in a pot and bring to a simmer.
Now dump in the vinegar and let the mixture reduce a little, finally adding the cornstarch, stirring until it is fully incorporated without any lumps.
Turn off the heat.
The glaze will thicken while you stir it.
Mix in cilantro reserving some to sprinkle on top.
Leave the glaze on the stove top. Don't panic if its a little cloudy.

Dip the shrimp into the glaze or brush them several times over, and place on a sheet or dish.

Roast the Poblano and Serrano over an open flame, then chop them up with the onion and garlic. Watch the seeds. More seeds generally means more heat.
Saute the vegetables.

When the vegetables just begin to wilt add in the glazed shrimp and sprinkle with salt/pepper/cumin powder.
Cook on each side till sort of see through and pinkish - about 4 minutes depending on whether or not you bought them pre-cooked.

Serve it with a smile.
You did a great job!

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Red Currant Jam with Blood Orange and Raspberries

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In like a lion out like lamb.
March has paraded into town all vibrato and big hair this year which means we are currently under the paw of some serious lion days.
Tangled in its mane, the wind is thick and the sky alternates between slate gray and a gorgeous airbrushed blue.
Airbrushed. Like the Jersey shore. "I love Nino" with palm trees on the back of a boardwalk T-shirt.
Kind of makes you want to bust open your kaboodle, tie in your favorite scrunchy and make out on the Ferris wheel doesn't it?
(OK maybe those are just my airbrush associations...
Or just a shout out to my sister).

Anyway , don't get fooled by the jam recipe.
I'm not one of those people anxiously awaiting summer even after a trip last week to visit family in Florida.
This is one of my favorite times of year.
Bulbs are peeking out to see whats going on this side of the dirt divide and weird fruit starts showing up at my grocery store.
I have a habit of buying fruit and thinking about it later,which not only explains the crowded nation of pomelos confined to my crisper, but also the jam.
You can't let food go to waste and I can't help buying it.
Last week a hot little container of tart red currants rendered my mind zombified and my wallet parted open so wide that the cashier asked if my first name was Moses.

Raspberry and Red currants are old bedfellows, matched in color, sour factor and jam-ability. Blood orange lends its distinct color to an all together gorgeous sweet and sour jam.
"Yes," I hear you say.
"But What to do with a sweet and sour jam?"
I'm like a superdelegate for jam and maybe Im campaigning a little hard but
I believe it is underutilized.
I have an unexpected use for this one and I plan on posting it next week.

Red Currant Jam with Blood orange and Raspberries

  • 2 cups red currants
  • 2 cups raspberries
  • 3 blood oranges
  • 2 cups sugar

* note there is no need for added pectin

Boil the currants in just enough water to cover them for a few minutes to soften them.
Now mash em up.
Add in the raspberries and the blood oranges peeled and cut up into small pieces.
Boil until the jam begins to reduce and get jamy.
Pour into sterilized jars and process for about 7 minutes.

This makes about 3 1/2 pints.

Thursday, November 22, 2007

Grrrrrrr-ateful : Dog biscuits with peanut butter

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When something is as cute as an Ewok you know your in trouble.
And trouble needs to be fed.

This Thanksgiving I wanted to give a little hot sweet love to my constant companion, Lady Baby O'Gravy.
There is no one who appreciates my cooking more.

Dog biscuits are super easy to make and the ingredients are probably already staring at you in the face when you open the cabinet. Making your own alleviates any fear of processed poisons and with the addition of olive oil and other such add ins you can be sure your pooch is getting a dose of healthy fats ,vitamins and phytonutrients.

This recipe is not intended for everyone but it is a good jumping off point.
Keep your dogs specific nutritional profile in mind when baking and avoid thins known to be toxic or hard to digest for the breed.

Dog Biscuit with P.B.


  • 1 1/2 cup stock (I like chicken here but you can use beef or fish)
  • 2 eggs
  • 3/4 cup peanut butter
  • 1/2 cup olive oil
  • 3/4 cup oatmeal
  • 1/2 cup cornmeal
  • 1 cup all purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 cup whole wheat flour




Mix the wet ingredients together and then add in the dry grains to make a dough.
Working in small batches, add extra flour as needed and roll out to about the thickness of your thumb from finger print to thumbnail - roughly under a 1/2 inch.
Cut out with a cookie cutter, jar lid or free form with a knife. Get creative.
Bake on an open cookies sheet , or the back or a rimmed cookies sheet
(simply place it upside down in the oven ) at 350 for about 30 minutes.

Store in sandwich baggies or a Tupperware container.

Friday, November 9, 2007

Red October - almost. Red Pear and Gorgonzola Risotto with Chicken

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Fall got stuck in some traffic this year.
Temperatures are just starting to drop and the leaves have been kind of lazy getting undressed for winter. Don’t get me wrong I’m not complaining,but my eyes have been hungry for fall color and this meal hits the spot.
Coupling red pears with a dusty sage coated risotto this dish packs a nice
one-two punch that knocked my color craving right in the kisser.

Always on the hunt for a good grab and pack snack I can eat between classes red pears materialized on my radar sometime last month like Red October.

Growing up with green and brown pears my curiosity was peaked.
Its worth noting they are a little more soft with a sweet unyielding paper-white flesh.

This recipe came by way of Epicurious, the component of Gourmet magazine. The original recipe would make a great vegetarian meal, but as a proud omnivore I used chicken stock in place of the veggie/wine mix along with a few slices of chicken breast.

Below I paraphrase and add my substitutions. Follow the above link to the original.

Red Pear and Gorgonzola Rissoto with chicken


  • 4 cups chicken broth
  • 2 chicken breasts baked and shreded
  • 2 tbls olive oil
  • 1 cup arborio rice
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage or 2 teaspoons dried rubbed sage
  • 1/3 cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese (about 2 ounces)
  • 1 red pear very thinly sliced


Simmer rice in olive oil untill it is translucent.
Add in chicken stock reserving a 1/2 cup.
Cook uncovered roughly 15 minutes adding reserved liquid as needed.
At the finish mix in the pear, chicken and cheese allowing it all the heat through thoroughly.

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Tuesday, November 6, 2007

I'm a weenie: Oktoberfest Frankfurter Casserole (Vegetarian)

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Like any food nerd I have in my possession a motley crew of cookbooks.
Many have been gleaned from thrift stores,yard sales,and then there is the occasional trophy from a weekday eBay bid on company time.
My book shelves are a drunken galleon of wobbly Nikki Sixx stacks and marked up pamphlets precariously leering like so many Tommy Lee-tards .
And
to further extend the Motley Crew metaphor I’ve got going on here, I will add that like M.C. concert, the contents often vacillate between grossly unhealthy and straight up absurd.
Sometimes the collection gets out of control.
I see them for the mess they are and resolve to clean it up.
It’s a tough call but I select a few of the more useless to throw back into the thrift store donation box for another turn of recycling on the karmatic wheel that is Goodwill.
But
just like a less busty but still hot Pam Anderson I keep taking them back bad as they are.
Bizarre and entirely unpalatable as the recipes can be I can’t help but get a little turned on when I pass a greasy McCall’s cover or a dilapidated copy of ,”Family Style in 20 minutes or less."
Really though, Who would’t pop a chubby for hard boiled egg Aspic with paprika cream?
C'mon. Be honest!

Part of my infatuation stems from a love of weird line drawings.
Many of the recipe collections from the 60’s/70’s are real freak shows flanked with drawings of lactating cow bakers and inspiring quotations such as
“A day without wine is like a day without sunshine!”.

However , nuggets of wisdom aside the true root of the problem is my love of the casserole.

This recipe is very loosely adapted from a McCall’s cookbook entry.
While not quite a casserole in the way you may be accustomed to considering them
there are no crumbled Ritz crackers or ,God bless, canned fried onions on top.
It is unerringly simple and comforting, and would have been perfect for October being that October makes me think of Beer and Germans.
And that thought, in the immortal words of Jennifer Coolidge as Paulette in Legally Blonde 2: Red, White & Blonde,

”…makes me want a hot dog real bad… “

I had planned on posting this during Oktoberfest.
You can see how that went.
I know I'm kind of a weenie for cheating you, gentle reader,
but better late then never.

Of course I love the simple dump and heat spirit of the dish but I tried to make this recipe a little healthier. However this is a comfort dish so don't expect me to get all martha on you with bouegoius groceries or good china.
I used veggie dogs in an effort skip consuming carcinogenic processed meats.
Don't get me wrong I love a good hot dog fresh from the grill , but no one is grilling here and the veggie version is just as good without the lips and meatholes.
I know the butchies in the audience are groaning - go ahead if you want your meat go for it.
You will notice I’ve also teamed up the scurvy fighting power of vitamin C packed sauerkraut with the cruciferous brussel sprout for some hot cabbage on cabbage action.
Sauerkraut is fermented with lactobacillus bacteria which is a pro-biotic found in most yogurts.
I can’t claim with any authority that any lactobacillus remains in the sauerkraut by the time warm it up but it’s interesting to note.
I guess you could try eating it cold.
Just kidding.

Of course as a health conscious young man I made my biscuit dough with freshly milled whole grain flour picked with the velvet gloved beaks of free range black hens in the Alpines.
It was purchased at Whole Foods.

But if you’re a single mom or someone who else who runs all over creation and back on a daily basis , so much so that , say for example , you don’t have time to post Oktoberfest themed recipes to your food blog during the actual month of October, you could just use one of those pop-tin-pre-made-biscuit-dough-thingy’s from Pillsbury.

Not that I did that.
I’m just say’n though.


Oktoberfest Frankfurter Casserole (Vegetarian)

  • 1 package soy hot dogs (or you can use the real thing)
  • 1 package Sauerkraut
  • 2 hand fulls of brussel sprouts (roughly one fresh container or one box frozen)

  • Chives
  • 2 tbsp dry mustard powder
  • 1 large onion
  • *1 tbsp caraway seeds
  • *1 tbsp celery seeds

  • *bacon / or "fake'n" slices


For The Biscuits


  • 1/2 cup butter or shortening
  • 2/3 cup milk
  • 2 cups all purpose flour
  • 1 tbsp baking powder
  • 1/4 tsp baking soda
  • 1/2 tsp cream of tartar
  • 1/4 tsp salt


or a tin of premade biscuit dough fresh from your grocers dairy isle
* optional

Heat up the sauerkraut and add in the brussel sprouts. I would suggest cooking in the brine but if you need more water go ahead and throw some in. Add in the celery and caraway seeds if your using them along with the dry mustard powder.

Mix your biscuit dough or pop the tin (don't get scared).
If mixing, add dry ingredients together then add butter / shortening.
Add milk into center and mix until just combine.
knead for a bit and then roll dough into a long thin cylinder. If your including bacon set two pieces on each side of the hot dog then wrap the dough around each hot dog in a spiral.
Sprinkle the tops with chives.

Place in a greased baking dish and bake at 400 for about 10 -15 minutes.
When its finished add in the brussel sprout and sauerkraut mix and serve.

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

Black and Blue: Black Licorice and Blueberry Ice Cream

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Cracking the spine to find a recipe for
blueberry with pinot noir and licorice jam all those weeks waiting for an inter-library loan were worth it. (p.s. libraries are fun places. all the cool kids are renewing their cards...and by cool kids i mean me).
"Mes confitures," written by Christine Ferber the "jam fairy of France" proved to throw oil on my long burning obsession with jam making this summer.
Being a fairy myself I liked the idea of licorice and blueberry together and started thinking about them folded into a smooth ice cream .

When I think of blueberries I think of my parents.
First of my dad - smiling with his infectious grin and giving me the last bite of his blueberry pie in Philadelphia - the greatest sacrifice of love any human being can make for another.
My father grew up in the city and being the worlds greatest dad has always been hyper vigilant when it comes to protecting me.
This applies doubly when considering the dangers of eating unidentified things from the fields and forest's I'd run through barefoot as a kid.
If it could be picked, plucked or picked up I brought it home despite his animated protests of "That stuff will kill ya!"

My mom on the other hand , having spent her childhood in the South was all about being bare foot and twiggy.
I can still remember the magic of watching her pick fruit straight off a branch and bite into a berry. Beautiful in dappled light my mother stood lovingly offering me a small round fruit.I was hesitant at first but her daring gave me permission to taste.
I can imagine how Adam felt. The Garden would have been lost that much sooner if the serpent had a blueberry in his pocket instead of an apple.
We laughed there on the wooded path juice running down our chins.

Being my parents son I could not fight the draw to wander in the woods but was also careful not to ingest every damn thing i picked up.
In time I learned what was OK and what was not.
But until that day I'd walk , eyeing my clenched fists of wild berries with suspicion. Rolling them around like so many rosary beads,
I'd say Hail Mary's on the walk home as a charm against the seductive idea of shoving open palms stained blue with want into my mouth before I reached the screen door.
Like Halloween candy they were suspect and as such needed to be investigated and identified before consumption.
Though fairly certain they were edible I wouldn't take a chance as per my fathers warning.
I wanted to be a good boy.
But I also wanted those berries.
Every so often I'd only make it a few paces before succumbing to an impromptu taste test.
If the berries were too sour my panic would send me into ecstatic fervour praying full force the whole way home. I hoped at least one Hail Mary would cushion my young soul in case my father was right.

Though having completed the northeastern half of their tour, a friend from the local farmers market passed along a quart of late bloomers a few weeks ago.
We tend to romanticize blueberries as being sweet, and they can be,
but they have got much more depth then that.
Their acid content can vary dramatically from one to the next
(as well as their cancer fighting and eye boosting antioxidants - anthocyans).
And
there is an earthy quality to them often unremembered that combines nicely with the gentle spice of licorice root making this combination more reasonable then it sounds at first.

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An unpopular candy, licorice doesn't carry pom poms and it doesn't listen to pop music. Madmartigan will even tell you it'll put hair on your chest.
However while it is wearing leather, licorice is not without its lace.
Licorice root is no doubt strong , but much more gentle then the concentrated candy,and easily tamed by a short steeping time and small portions.

Most of the recipes I found (like this one I tried )for licorice ice cream use the candy , and a shot or two of Pernod (which while lending its own flavor is a fickle cousin of absinthe with varying amounts of licorice depending on the maker, invariably offering an extreme amount of anise ).
In case you missed it neither of these things are the root.
I imagine this is in part because its not the sort of thing that you can easily find in your grocers freezer.
My suggestion would be to try your local Asian market or a kick-ass herb store like Frontier.

With Halloween right around the corner I decided to try the candy out in a test batch omitting the Pernod.
Why no Pernod?
Because I couldn't possible imagine a time when I'd bust it out again.
I don't plan on chasing absinthe or entertaining any oompa loompas in the near future and I like alcohol far too much to just allow it to sit useless and stupid in the closet.

Trust me its still plenty liquorishy without the liquor.

I extrapolated my own root based version which you will find below.
The results were different enough to note.
The root infused ice cream subtly lent its warmth in the way cinnamon might to an apple cobbler.
The candy version was stronger, blacker and more predictable.
Of course the original recipe using candy here did not call for the addition of blueberries. That was my own doing, but even without the Pernod it overpowered the blueberries.
A practical note should you try the linked version:
I'd suggest making sure that your licorice is soft.
Soft licorice melts much more easily.Try Panda brand. Not only is it generally "fresher" but the animation on their page is ADORABLE!
I would also use 1/2 to 3/4 of the recommended amount of licorice unless you get your jollies on intense licorice flavor.

Don't get me wrong, I can TRUCK up some candy but this time around
daddy likes it raw.


Black Licorice and Blueberry Ice Cream

  • 2 cups half and half

  • 2 cups heavy cream

  • 1 and 1/4 cup sugar

  • 1-2 long sticks of licorice (or two tea bags)
    a little common sense and a little tongue go a long way here kids.
    peel some of the stick and taste it.
    if its strong and fresh use less. If its weak and old more makes it bold.

  • 1 and 1/2 cups blueberries

  • 1/2 tbsp vanilla


Blend up 1 cup of the blueberries and set aside the other 1/2 cup.
Mix the licorice with the milks and sugar in a saucepan and bring to just under a boil stirring all the while.
once cooled add in the berry puree and the remaining whole berries.

Now comes teh most important part.
Taste.
Ice cream loses some of its sweetness while freezing. It has to do with our taste buds and how they function under the duress of cold.
It should taste more sweet then you'd like it when completed and licorice-y.
Take out the tea bags after the mix reaches room temp-ish.
Depending on the distributor it could make your mix more bitter if left over night.
If using sticks Don't take the licorice out until the morning / before freezing.

Freeze ice cream according to your machines instructions.

If you don't have a machine you can place the mix in a long container (like a disposable Tupperware) in the freezer and use a fork every hour or so to scrap it up. You want to make sort of a snow flaky mixture.
It wont have the same consistency as churned ice cream but it will do the trick.



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