Wednesday, May 30, 2007

cuatro leches cake (4 milks cake)




At one of our near-monthly family dinners, one of us bought a shitload of shrimp.

I think it was me.

I was seized by a school-induced cerebral malaise that left me unable to decide on how many pounds of shrimp were appropriate for 4 people. When growing up in an Italian/Southern home, there is no such thing as a small portion. I, of course, bought close to 15 pounds.

Nothing about 15 pounds of shrimp is even mildly appropriate.

I was clearly confused.

"Shrimp-shitload" lead to another family dinner party the following week in an attempt to make good on the overabundance of shrimp.

Rebbecca suggested paella and it was on like Donkey Kong.

Through a series of covert conference calls stolen on the company line during working hours, we decided that the paella was a beast best spearheaded by our combined culinary expertise. The others would work as our henchmen. Our paella was to be a patchwork quilt of effort. Someone would bring peas, someone else mussels, etc. At the last minute we'd toss it together blissfully toasting glasses of sangria to our piece meal of love.

And so this entry was supposed to be about paella.
However, what we expected to be a graceful swan dive turned out to be a bit of a belly flop. Still a dive but a little awkward and, well, floppy.

And it involved our bellies.
I'll thank you to roll with my metaphor.

The paella wasn't bad but it had room for improvement.I'd like to say that this cuatro leches cake was the Greg Louganis to our belly-down.

Like Greg Louganis the cake is thick and strong, able to take a beating, holding up beautiful, toned and supple, surrounded by tons of liquid and the associated pressure.
It's the density of the cake that makes it an ace at absorbing all three of those sweet, gooey leches. The fourth, of course, sits like a golden crown on top of each layer.In addition to being dense and crumbly (qualities which I do not attribute to Mr. Louganis), it was sweet and golden brown (qualities which I *do* attribute to Mr. Louganis).
Someone should have written a book about it.
Besides all that it looks damn good in a Speedo.
Just kidding about the Speedo.
On the cake that is.

The sauce is soft and sweet and the dulce de leche adds a nice smooth place to suckle at the teet of mother sugar cane.
Slices are best cut Karen-Carpenter-thin as a mere glance at this cake could send you convulsing into sugar shock.
If candyland has a Basilisk this is it.

I highly suggest giving it to the mean people in your life.
It might make them sweeter.
Or
maybe just give it to the mean people in your life who
also happen to be lactose intolerant .

Tuesday, May 1, 2007

Good Head

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In our throw away culture there is something really rewarding/exciting about asking your local fish monger to keep the heads. Hell , There is something really exciting about just using the word fishmonger. Though, I have to admit, I was mixed with a strange mélange of pride and carnivore guilt when he handed me the bag. Its not often you walk away with a bloody, fresh and still discernable kill from your local grocers freezer.

“aaww poor fish “ I crooned.
“its your fault” said the fishmonger, “you killed them. “
“ Thanks for that.” I replied. “ Ill be sure to come here again. “
We went back to my friends house and watched "The Deadliest Catch" while we picked over the bones.

I like making stocks.
A stock is like a strong supporting cast member - one that you can stick in the freezer and take out for later use .
Besides the whole alchemy that stems from making pungent scraps into something subtle and endlessly usefull (fish pie, paella , soup…) , it’s the perfect way to spend a few hours on a rainy spring afternoon .Something about fish stock is inherently warming on those first noncomital ,rainy and gray spring days– that inbetween time where you aren’t really sure if its actually warming up or if the sheer will exerted by the tired cold masses is enough to bring up last years bulbs.

I wont lie .I probably didn’t pick the best fish.
You aren’t suppose to use salmon. Ive always been one to challenge authority. I wanted to know why and I found out. Apparently salmon gives up more fat then other fishes and fat can gunk up your flow. There is any easy solution. Fat floats. All that needs be done is to skim the top. You really should be doing it anyway.That being said I feel like salmon made for a "fishier" stock .
I also used some sea bass parts hoping they'd add some depth .

A few other tips :



  • Leave some space in the container at the top if you are going to freeze so the liquid can expand. I didnt the first time.
  • Magazines like better homes and gardens like to suggest freezing in ice cubes trays so you can pop them out and use them like boullian cups when the spirit moves you
  • boiling fish in water sometimes lends a cloudy broth. Cooking the heads a little bit in a pan before hand will help you keep a clear stock , though its no big whoop.

P.s. there really is no way to go wrong.

But this is what I did based on what was at hand and available on the cheap at the supermarket



  • 2.5 ilbs fish parts
  • a parsnip
  • one HUGE onion
  • 2 whites of leeks
  • 3 celery stalks with leaves
  • 12 peppercorns
  • 2 bay leaves
  • dill
  • taragon
  • tyme
  • salt
  • 2 quarts (8 cups) water
  • lemon juice
  • white wine vineagar (1/2 cup or so)
  • a little wine to mellow the mind (1/2 cup or so)


First you want to steam the vegetables and make them soft adding the fish bits toward the end. I let in simmer in a big nelly bottomed pan for about 5 minutes or so (till the heads started to turn white and fall apart) . At this point add the vineagar and or wine. simmer a little longer and then turn the contents into a big stock pot with 2 quarts water.
Boil anywhere from 30 - 50 minutes.

strain.

refrigerate and use withing 3-4 days or freeze that mess and use it withing 4 months or so.

I didnt specify on the herbs etc. use your judgement.
For a change of pace I can say,
it's not me ... its you.